Light and bright - lemon adds special zest to many dishes
by Vicki Frank
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Spring brings with it a lightness that seems to pervade everything. From our moods to the very food we eat, the fever for warmer weather is an inspiration. We crave time outside with the sun on our faces, making the most of the longer daylight hours and eating lighter, fresher foods. And while we can begin to enjoy fresh local produce, there are also flavors not indigenous to our area that beckon us to indulge.

Lemons are, for all the world, the taste of sunshine. Their sunny bright color and juicy tartness fairly shout spring. And so it's no coincidence that they are prominently featured in many dishes we associate with this verdant, lovely season.

Another stunning quality that endears lemons to me is that you can use almost every part of them (except the pits). Whole lemons or slices add moistness and flavor to roast chicken when placed inside the cavity and under the skin.

The juice can be used for drinks, dressings, as a tenderizer and marinade for meats or to flavor desserts. The peel, which contains the perfumed oils, literally adds zest to everything from muffins to butter for grilled seafood. Use the peel cut into strips for a drink garnish or candied for desserts. For zesting (removing just the outer yellow part), invest in a microplane, a long stainless steel rasp, often with a handle, that is actually inspired by a woodworker's tool. It absolutely makes fast easy work of zesting and is easy to clean. Its fine holes and sharpness make it the best tool I've found for removing just the desirable yellow part of the peel, which is the best part. Avoid getting into the whitish pith below the surface, which can be bitter. Lemon zest, by the way, is best fresh, so don't prepare it more than an hour before you plan to use it.

To get the most juice from the fruit, roll room temperature lemons between your palm and the counter to loosen the pulp. Cut in half and start squeezing. My preferred method is tried and true: I use an old-fashioned manual glass juicer, the kind with a spout for pouring and a reservoir around the central corrugated cone. Place a lemon half on the cone and twist back and forth until all the pulp is mashed and juiceless. Pour the juice through a mesh strainer into a large measuring cup and squeeze any pulp left in the strainer to extract any juice left there. One lemon will yield about 1/4 cup of juice and about 1 tablespoon of zest. Using both the zest and juice? Zest the lemon before squeezing it. It's far easier than the other way around.

Aside from their culinary prowess, lemons are also indispensable as a cleansing agent for cutting boards, garbage disposals and copper pots. They are also an eco-friendly whitening agent for linens and even socks (bring a pot of water with lemon slices to a boil on the stovetop, turn off the heat, add linens and soak for an hour before laundering) or just as a way to freshen up the kitchen. Sitting in a bowl on the counter they add a sunny - and practical - touch to your home, keeping them always within reach. Because they keep up to four weeks in the fridge and about a week at room temperature, they are a staple in our house, so we always have some on hand.

To showcase how luscious and surprising lemons can be, I've chosen recipes that illustrate that quite nicely, leaning more toward their savory side. You can enjoy lemons in every course, celebrating them with a feast that shows them to their best advantage. Or simply choose one dish to make. Either way, you'll see their sunny side and will want to use them often, which is easy to do since they also happen to be available twelve months of the year. (Although their peak season is April through July).

LEMON CURD - Satiny, luscious lemon curd is very versatile and will quickly become a staple in your kitchen. Slather it on toast, dollop some on gingerbread, spread between butter cookies, swirl into cheesecake, fold into whipped cream or layer into a parfait. I like to use it as a cake filling as well. It's great to give as gifts, packaged in pretty jars with directions on its many uses. Covered tightly, it will keep in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks or in the freezer for up to 2 months. Please note that once you begin cooking, it will need your constant attention. INGREDIENTS: 2/3 cup fresh lemon juice (from about 3 lemons), 1 tablespoon lemon zest, 2 eggs, 2 egg yolks, 1 1/4 cup sugar, 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces. METHOD: In a medium bowl, whisk eggs and yolks well. Continue whisking and gradually add sugar, then lemon juice and zest. In a large heavy saucepan, begin to melt butter over medium heat. When just starting to melt, add 1 tablespoon (or so) of melted butter to egg mixture and continue to whisk to temper. Slowly add egg mixture to butter in saucepan and whisk constantly until it thickens, about 10 minutes. (You will notice it starting to thicken and become sumptuously fragrant, like buttery caramel, after about 6 minutes, but continue to whisk until the whisk leaves noticeable impressions, about 4-5 minutes more. Some will tell you to strain the curd immediately because there may be small white egg pieces in it, but this method eliminates that curdling, so straining isn't necessary). Allow to cool (it will thicken more as it does), pour into a small bowl, cover and chill.

PASTA with LEMON SAUCE - This Tuscan-style pasta is light and fresh, quick and easy to prepare and is an excellent first course or side dish. The simplicity of ingredients means each one is pronounced, so be sure to use the freshest and highest quality (buy a piece of good Parmesan and grate it yourself just before serving. It makes all the difference). The combination of herbs has the extra benefit of aiding digestion. INGREDIENTS: 1 lb pasta (preferably tagliatelle or linguini), 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil, the juice and zest of 3 lemons, 1/4 cup each chopped fresh basil, mint and parsley, salt and pepper to taste and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. METHOD: While cooking the pasta according to package directions, make the sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice and zest, herbs, salt and pepper. When pasta is cooked, drain it, reserving 1/2 cup of the liquid. Place pasta in a large bowl and toss with the lemon mixture. Add reserved pasta water only if it seems too dry. Sprinkle Parmesan on top and serve immediately. Makes enough for 4 - 6 side dishes.

ASPARAGUS with SWEET LEMON VINAIGRETTE - The fresh green flavor of asparagus pairs beautifully with lemon, and both are at their best in spring. Use this as a dressing for arugula salad with thinly sliced radishes or drizzle it over grilled seafood. INGREDIENTS: 2 bunches asparagus, trimmed, 2 tablespoons plus 1 1/2 cups olive oil, 1 lb mesclun (or baby greens), 1/2 cup slivered almonds (toasted if you like), juice and zest from 2 lemons, 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar, 2 tablespoons stone-ground mustard, 1 tablespoon honey, salt and pepper to taste. METHOD: In a large bowl, toss asparagus with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and a pinch of salt. Arrange asparagus in a single layer on foil-lined baking sheets and broil until al dente (about 10 minutes), turning halfway through. Remove from oven and set aside to cool. Make vinaigrette: In a medium bowl, whisk together lemon juice and zest, balsamic vinegar, mustard, honey, salt and pepper until well combined. Continue to whisk and add remaining olive oil in a steady stream until well blended. PRESENTATION: Cut asparagus into 1 inch pieces on the diagonal. Toss asparagus, mesclun and almonds with lemon vinaigrette. Divide equally among 6-8 plates. Top with freshly grated Parmesan and pepper, if you like.

LEMON RICE - This is a favorite. It goes great with lamb, seafood, pork, lemon chicken or a salty ham. INGREDIENTS: 2 1/2 cups chicken broth, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed, 1 cup rice, juice from 1 lemon, 2-3 tablespoons lemon zest, 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill, 2 tablespoons butter, salt and pepper to taste. METHOD: In a heavy saucepan, heat broth, salt and garlic to boiling. Stir in rice and half the lemon juice, cover and simmer until liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in lemon zest, butter and remaining juice. Cover and let stand for 5 minutes. Remove garlic and gently stir in dill, salt and pepper. Serve immediately. 4-6 portions.

It's a warm day and my windows are open to let in the breeze. That, mixed with the refreshing scent of the lemons I've used to revisit the recipes here, combine to create the indoor equivalent of freshly laundered sheets aired on the line. I look up from my writing to see the lemons left after cooking sitting in a robin's egg blue colander and all seems right with the world. Spring is truly in the air and the optimism and hope that gives me reminds me that it's true what they say: When life hands you lemons, make lemonade. Or lemon curd. Or a lovely vinaigrette. Just add sunshine to whatever you like, taste the fresh tang of its lightness and enjoy.

Vicki Frank Day is a graphic artist with more than 20 years experience in different aspects of the food service industry. She is the illustrator and visual merchandising coordinator for Adams Fairacre Farms where she has worked for 12 years, with in-depth food research being an integral part of her marketing position. She believes that cooking is for everyone and should be a pleasurable journey, that food should be experienced, not merely eaten and that special occasions can be an everyday celebration. Email her at vfrankday@adamsfarms.com.

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